December | 1858 Army "Hardee" Hat
Adopted in 1858, this hat was used widely by officers and enlisted soldiers during the Civil War. Although not officially known as a "Hardee" hat, it is named after William J. Hardee, a career Army cavalry officer. The design of the hat can be traced back to Jefferson Davis' tenure as Secretary of War--this is why it is sometimes referred to as the Jeff Davis hat. In 1855, Davis created two cavalry regiments, and a distinctive hat was recommended to be used only by cavalry units. The 1858 hat was considered more practical than previous hats; however, this model was not popular with solders, as many thought it was hot, heavy, ill-fitting, and unattractive. In 1868, a commission of Army doctors and officers reviewing U.S. equipment wrote, "The hat is objectionable from its size and its great weight and want of ventilation." During the Civil War, many soldiers preferred the forage (kepi) cap and by 1872 the Army phased out the "Hardee" hat.
This close-up image reveals that this particular hat belonged to an enlisted infantry soldier as indicated by the brass bugle or "looped horn", blue hat cord, and a single ostrich feather. The letter "A" designates the soldier's company. Insignia on officers' hats were embroidered and hat cords were silver for officers and gold for general officers.
Made from heavy black felt, the brim of the hat was looped up by an eagle on the right side and decorated with an ostrich feather on the left. The question as to which side of the hat was to be looped up and by whom is somewhat confusing. General Order 4, War Department, of February 26, 1861 stated that infantry and artillery officers were to loop up the brim on the right while General Order 6 of March 13, 1861 indicates that it was to be looped on the right by cavalry and on the left by infantry soldiers. Images also add to the confusion. Official Quartermaster uniform photographs taken in 1865-1866, highlight that all hats were looped up on the left.